Understanding the Balkan Fashion Epidemic

As the sun sets earlier and the fireplaces start lighting up, people are wrapping up heavier than ever before. At a time when fashion dies in lieu of heavy winter jackets and weatherproof boots, one begins to wonder where to find well-dressed winter? Well, I may not be the most well travelled person but when winter fashion comes to mind I think of the Balkans - a region that despite not being reputed with fashion is nonetheless a display of everyday couture. Apparently I’m not the only one who thinks so anymore as the streets are filling up more and more with Balkan fashion trends to the point I have to keep reminding myself I am still in fact in the UK. 

As an area, the Balkans are composed of many countries with their own small, unevenly paved cities and even smaller, cobble stoned villages - not exactly fashion capitals of the world. So, you may ask why do Balkan women dress as though they are Paris when they may only be walking through the tumbled down streets of Sofia or Belgrade? Well, sociologically there has always been a correlation between lower income areas and people within them spending more on high end brands and curating a clothing collection. It represents not only a sense of mutual respect and power amongst areas with income inequality but it also represents a small ritual of joy. As seen in Gen Z demographics now, people are more likely to spend money on small, temporal objects rather than big picture objects, and the same can be said for the Balkans. Especially, as Eastern European countries are known to have the highest rates of depression within Europe, dressing up can also be a distraction to this factor and a refocus on making everyday count. 

These regions are also deeply ritualistic and often slow moving, meaning people take time to appreciate aspects of their day, such as dressing and eating, rather than the fast paced, careless ways in which they are done in other work obsessed cultures of the world. Consequently, getting dressed has become a cultural act and a way of preserving one’s connection to their day and to their life. I recently came across a TikTok of a Greek girl saying “My mother’s worst nightmare came true today - I went to Deree [college] with sweatpants,” I laughed but secretly that is a ‘nightmare’ that even I have. Especially in my city, Thessaloniki, people are known to dress up for every occasion, being made a joke that Thessalonian women will go to the supermarket in heels. Jokes aside, dressing up in your daily life alleviates your confidence and intention and if that means going for coffee with your friends as though you’re dressed to go for coffee with Alex Consani - so be it. 

For many reasons, this way of dressing can be perceived as dramatic and out of touch with reality - however in many ways it can also be understood as a very healthy habit. In Western societies it is so clear that people are so used to overconsuming and buying leisure over fashion. However, in the Balkans you will often see girls wear furs passed down in their families, clothes made for them by their grandmas, clothes borrowed within their neighbourhoods and social circles, and buying clothes that will last. The Balkans are also very consumed in dark colour palettes meaning no one is buying trending items, rather they already have an identity and they stick to it. Having this certainty and this intention over what we wear is what creates stability, security and enjoying life as one is rather than constantly adapting to the new trend. And now it is clear that everyone else is trying to follow the Balkan way of dressing, to have a taste of this lifestyle. 

So what are the Balkan trends taking over the season? 

Firstly - the fur. Fur coats, afghan jackets and fur hats are all core Balkan winter pieces, from your elderly neighbour to the girl next door - everyone is sporting the wild winter coat. Secondly, not too far from this trend - animal print, a staple in every λαικη stall and definitely my grandma’s favourite pattern seems to be everyone else’s now too. Moving on, we have the dark, deep colour palettes of black, navy and burgundy which have always brought in the wintry tones under the cold, gleaming, Balkan sun. Furthermore, if you’re adapting to the balaclava scarf trend then you are definitely channeling someone's Balkan grandma. Recently, there has also been a revival of more traditional aspects of Balkan dress such as long, heavy skirts and heavy jewellry with all kinds of beading, coins and charms. Extra points if you’re wearing office siren glasses which are a Balkan pharmacy staple. Heels from the club to your weekly shop at Aldi to your 9AM lecture are also the most Balkan habit in sight. 

At the end of the day, fashion is each to their own and there’s no issue in that. If you don’t want to dress as a Balkan baddie this winter there’s also no issue in that. However, one thing we should all take away from the Balkan fashion epidemic is that dressing should always be intentional. The clothes you buy, the way you wear them and the pace in which you get ready should reflect yourself and the natural flow of time. Not everything will last forever, but taking the time to feel good in the day is the most timeless thing we can do.